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Natural Vibes

Natural Vibes

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GROW OPTIMISM

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Nature is the teacher

Nature is the teacher

“discover the strength that is within you”

Awaken your ancestral connection with nature

Awaken your ancestral connection with nature


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Bonsai winter jasmine

gelsomino bonsai 2

Outdoor Bonsai 

Jasminum nudiflorum

Winter jasmine, hardy and frost-resistant, belongs to the olive family.

 

It grows vigorously and is particularly showy for its winter flowering: from December to March, it produces numerous bright yellow flowers that can be admired on its drooping branches, making it a popular ornamental plant in our latitudes.

 

It is leafless in winter, but boasts a profusion of flowers.

 

It develops long, rather slender shoots and is able to twine, making the shrub very attractive for bonsai cultivation.

Jasmine is native to Southeast Asia and northern China, where it thrives in the harsh mountain climate up to an altitude of almost 4,000 m.

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The message of Optimism

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Growing Trust

 

Bringing a seed to life is an act of faith.

But bringing a jasmine bonsai to life is a true workout for the soul, a practice that strengthens you and reconnects you with your deepest ability: optimism.

 

 

 

Imagine: you've sown. You've prepared the soil, carefully managed the moisture, waited. Three months. Three long months during which the seed, invisible beneath the soil, seems to defy all certainty.

 

During this time, the mind is a master of sabotage. Poisonous thoughts arise: "I did something wrong. Too much water, too little. Nothing will ever grow. I failed."

 

Every day is a test, an invitation to give in to doubt, to prepare for the worst, to imagine an empty vessel, a failure foretold.

 

 

The Sprout: An Epiphany of Hope

Then, suddenly, one day, you see it. A tiny, indomitable green shoot pushes forward, defying the earth and all your fears. In that instant, every sabotaging thought dissolves like mist in the sun. Doubt is swept away.

 

It's not just a seedling sprouting; it's an irrefutable truth revealed:

You trusted.

You were patient.

You succeeded.

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This isn't just a reward for your hard work; it's an initiation.

The little jasmine isn't just a bonsai; it's your living reminder that perseverance pays off, that waiting is fertile, that optimism isn't blind hope, but a force capable of creating reality.

 

You will come into contact with a new frequency, a vibration of trust and optimism that will accompany you from this moment on. This jasmine will be your visual anchor to that feeling of power, keeping you on a higher plane.

 

 

"Patience is not waiting, but the constant certainty that what you have sown with love is already happening, in the silence of the earth."

Instructions

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Seed characteristics:

It contains a supply of nutrients that, after germination, ensures that the young plant can develop its basic organs—roots, stems, and leaves—before it is able to photosynthesize and grow with its nourished green leafy organs (autotrophy).

Nutrient reserves are usually created in the cotyledons (first embryonic leaves), and in some species also in a special nutrient-rich tissue (endosperm) found within the seed.

 

 

The seedling initially grows thanks to the nutrients stored in the seed, which are transported to the growing parts and used there as building materials. A large seed contains many nutrients. The seedling is correspondingly large from the start. When the cotyledons are open, light for photosynthesis, temperature, and water supply play an important role in growth.

 

Even if the seedling suddenly appears to stop growing, there will be increased root growth in the soil as a basis for optimal care, which your seedling needs for vigorous above-ground growth.

Growing medium:

Ordinary potting soil is not particularly suitable for sowing. It contains too many fertilizer salts. This means that the seeds can rot in it, or the germinated plants will die because the fertilizer salts damage their delicate roots. The provided substrate is low in nutrients, germ-free, and water-permeable. At the beginning of growth, the seedling substrate is used primarily to anchor the seedling and provide uniform moisture. Minerals (fertilizers) are not initially necessary, as the seeds "bring" them with them.

 

 

There is another advantage to a seedling substrate with only a low fertilizer content: the plant then forms more root mass (main and lateral roots, nourished by the seed's nutritive tissue) and thus, to put it anthropomorphically, increasingly "seeks" minerals, which allows for vigorous growth after the start of photosynthetic activity.

Plants grown in well-fertilized soil (e.g., potting soil from gardening stores) invest more in shoot and leaf growth and less in root growth, which often leads to less plant stability after planting.

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Water and Proper Irrigation

Water should have as little limescale as possible. In most cities, water is unfortunately hard and calcareous.

 

 

Rainwater is ideal, or you can boil tap water and water your plants. It's best if the irrigation water is at room temperature.

 

 

After moistening the entire growing medium once at the beginning, it's best to prepare the water in a spray bottle and spray the growing medium daily. This way, the moisture is applied more evenly and prevents the seeds from washing away.

Air

Plants need water. However, the fact that plant roots also need air and breathe oxygen is often overlooked. Therefore, care must be taken to ensure that the soil is not compacted, that the pots are not directly in water, and that air can return to the roots after watering.

Protection:

Most pests, such as whiteflies, spider mites, red spiders, aphids, and scale insects, appear when the room air is too dry. In this case, ventilate more frequently or spray the plant leaves with water as low in lime as possible to increase humidity. This method is very successful.

 

Spray the leaves and soil surface with a vegetable broth, for example. To do this, add 100 g of fresh herbs to 1 liter of water and let it steep for 24 hours.

Then boil for half an hour, let it cool, and pass it through a sieve. Dilute this broth with 2 liters of water and pour it into a spray bottle.

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A green thumb requires time and experience:

In nature, only a small fraction germinate successfully and/or subsequently become strong plants.

 

 

With an optimal growing environment and a few helpful tips, we try to significantly increase the success rate, but even then, 100 percent success is not guaranteed, and sometimes no seeds germinate at all.

 

 

We know firsthand that there are many failures on the road to becoming a green thumb, but we've never let this discourage us; on the contrary, every failure has always given us new energy to try again and again, even better.

Let's learn from the obstacles:

 

- If the growing medium is too moist, the seed can mold.

 

- If the growing medium is too dry, even briefly, the germination process can be interrupted, and many seeds will not resume the process later, even if there is sufficient moisture.

 

- The temperature ranges we specify during cultivation are based on experience, but seeds react individually and are sensitive to temperature changes.

 

- Germination time is also an empirical average and should not be interpreted too restrictively. Even in nature, there are sometimes significant delays, so much so that germination can occur very, very late.

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Sowing Instructions:

 

Indoor cultivation is possible year-round.

 

Revival: Days 1 - 7

Seed must first be stratified: this means stimulating germination through a seed activation process.

 

Stratification:

Soak the seed in cold water for 24 hours before sowing.

 

Sow about a centimeter deep in moist soil, using the container's glass.

 

Patience, perseverance, and patience:

Cover the container with plastic wrap (which you will need to pierce) or with the container's lid, which you will also need to pierce. This will protect the soil from drying out.

Every two or three days, remove the plastic wrap for two hours. This prevents mold from forming on the soil.

 

Week 4: The first sprout

Place the container in a bright, warm location at 20°-25°C and keep the soil moist, but not wet. The seedling should appear after four to ten weeks.

 

When the plant is about 10 cm tall, it's time to transfer it to the flat bonsai pot:

Using a utility knife, make a vertical cut in the bamboo fiber cup that has served as the container until now, taking care not to cut or damage the jasmine's roots.

Without disturbing the root ball, transfer the plant to the new pot and cover with bonsai soil.

 

Position:

Winter jasmine prefers bright or sunny locations, but it also grows in shady places and, despite its winter hardiness, should be protected in some way to prevent the flowers from being damaged.

 

Care:

During the growing season, the plant requires generous watering; however, it can tolerate longer periods of drought. Fertilizing every six weeks is more than sufficient.

 

Soil:

For winter jasmine, which is not a particularly demanding plant, commercially available bonsai soil mixes are suitable, or alternatively, sandy or even calcareous soil.

 

 

Pruning:

After flowering, in late spring, all shoots can be pruned back to 1-2 buds. When new shoots appear, around July, prune back to 2-3 buds. Jasmine tolerates heavy pruning without any problems. The plant can be shaped with wire in the summer. Repotting every 2-3 years is sufficient. Spring or fall are the ideal seasons.

Because the shrub has shallow roots, they can be easily combed and pruned.

FAQ

Where should I place my jasmine bonsai?

Jasmine loves sunny and bright positions to flower properly, but it also grows in shady places.

Can jasmine be kept indoors?

No, it requires the natural change of seasons. The cold winter is essential for its natural life cycle. A heated home environment would first and foremost compromise its flowering. Keeping it indoors would quickly cause it to deteriorate.

How should I regulate watering?

During the growth phase, the plant must be watered generously, however it can also tolerate longer periods of drought.

What is the flowering period?

From December to March it produces numerous bright yellow flowers that can be admired on its hanging branches

Should I protect my flowers from winter frost?

Yes, it's important to protect them to prevent damage. Keep the plant in a cool environment (such as a sheltered balcony or cold greenhouse).

Can I use wire on jasmine branches?

Yes, and the best time is during the growing season in summer. During this phase, the branches are more flexible, and the sap flow allows them to repair any micro-fractures. In winter, the wood is stiffer and more fragile.

If after a few months I don't see any sprouting, what can I do?

Check the seed by digging it up slightly to make sure it is still there, that it hasn't rotted, and above all, that the substrate is moist.

How can I keep the soil moist during germination?

Spray daily or every other day.

Remove the film for half an hour approximately every three days to prevent mold growth.

Advantages of bonsai pots?

Shallow bonsai pots encourage more compact growth than small trees found in nature.

Can I fertilize my bonsai?

Yes, fertilizing every 6 weeks is sufficient.

How can I proceed with pruning?

After flowering, in late spring, you can prune all the shoots back to 1-2 buds. When new shoots appear, around July, prune back to 2-3 buds. Glysamine tolerates heavy pruning without problems.

Does jasmine grow fast?

It develops long, rather thin shoots and can curl. It's a very interesting shrub for bonsai cultivation.

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