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Natural Vibes

Natural Vibes

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GROW VITALITY

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Nature is the teacher

Nature is the teacher

“awakening is your true strength”

Awaken your ancestral connection with nature

Awaken your ancestral connection with nature


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Coffee plant

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Indoor plant

Coffea Arabica Nana

This evergreen and highly decorative coffee plant is the dwarf form of the beloved coffee shrub.

 

It enchants with its deep green, glossy leaves, and in spring, it produces snow-white, star-shaped flowers that smell wonderfully of vanilla.

 

After just a few years of loving care, this impressive plant will reward you with your first homegrown coffee beans!

 

Grinding freshly harvested coffee beans is a truly special experience. And the joy is even greater if you actually succeed.

The message of Vitality

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Growing Vitality

 

The Spark of Inner Awakening

Recognize Coffea Arabica as the source of pure energy.

True vitality is not just physical movement (limited and short-lived), but a mental alertness (expansive and a source of energy) that pierces the veil of apathy.

 

The plant is the true ally in overcoming all forms of fatigue; it raises your vibration to a state of perpetual and luminous alertness.

 

The Flow of Abundance and Prosperity

Vitality is the root of success. Embrace the plant as a symbol of prosperity and economic growth. Just as its fruits ripen vibrantly red, you attract abundance by cultivating a mindset of fulfillment. Coffea teaches you that when internal energy flows unimpeded, external success is the natural consequence.

 

The Sacred Union of Community

Celebrate coffee as the glue of human bonds. It fosters interpersonal harmony, strengthening bridges between families and communities. Just as Sufi monks shared the drink to sustain themselves during nights of prayer, you use this energy to heal broken relationships and nourish bonds based on respect and fraternal sharing.

 

The Clarity of Watchful Presence

We dedicate our mind to absolute concentration. Coffea gives us the ability to remain alert, focused, and present in the here and now, transforming our every action into an act of dynamic prayer. Mental clarity is our compass on the evolutionary path, allowing us to see beyond the shadows of uncertainty.

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The Balance of Wood

Promote personal growth that is harmonious, never forced. Honor the element of Wood through the dwarf form of the plant: a force that expands yet remains flexible.

Avoid inflexibility and excess, nurturing your vitality so that it remains balanced and gentle, capable of healing without overwhelming, growing in balance with the space around you.

 

 

 

"Awakening is not a moment, but a constant frequency that fuels the fire of your spirit and converts it into pure energy."

Instructions

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Seed characteristics:

It contains a supply of nutrients that, after germination, ensures that the young plant can develop its basic organs—roots, stems, and leaves—before it is able to photosynthesize and grow with its nourished green leafy organs (autotrophy).

Nutrient reserves are usually created in the cotyledons (first embryonic leaves), and in some species also in a special nutrient-rich tissue (endosperm) found within the seed.

 

 

The seedling initially grows thanks to the nutrients stored in the seed, which are transported to the growing parts and used there as building materials. A large seed contains many nutrients. The seedling is correspondingly large from the start. When the cotyledons are open, light for photosynthesis, temperature, and water supply play an important role in growth.

 

Even if the seedling suddenly appears to stop growing, there will be increased root growth in the soil as a basis for optimal care, which your seedling needs for vigorous above-ground growth.

Growing medium:

Ordinary potting soil is not particularly suitable for sowing. It contains too many fertilizer salts. This means that the seeds can rot in it, or the germinated plants will die because the fertilizer salts damage their delicate roots. The provided substrate is low in nutrients, germ-free, and water-permeable. At the beginning of growth, the seedling substrate is used primarily to anchor the seedling and provide uniform moisture. Minerals (fertilizers) are not initially necessary, as the seeds "bring" them with them.

 

 

There is another advantage to a seedling substrate with only a low fertilizer content: the plant then forms more root mass (main and lateral roots, nourished by the seed's nutritive tissue) and thus, to put it anthropomorphically, increasingly "seeks" minerals, which allows for vigorous growth after the start of photosynthetic activity.

Plants grown in well-fertilized soil (e.g., potting soil from gardening stores) invest more in shoot and leaf growth and less in root growth, which often leads to less plant stability after planting.

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Water and Proper Irrigation

Water should have as little limescale as possible. In most cities, water is unfortunately hard and calcareous.

 

 

Rainwater is ideal, or you can boil tap water and water your plants. It's best if the irrigation water is at room temperature.

 

 

After moistening the entire growing medium once at the beginning, it's best to prepare the water in a spray bottle and spray the growing medium daily. This way, the moisture is applied more evenly and prevents the seeds from washing away.

Air

Plants need water. However, the fact that plant roots also need air and breathe oxygen is often overlooked. Therefore, care must be taken to ensure that the soil is not compacted, that the pots are not directly in water, and that air can return to the roots after watering.

Protection:

Most pests, such as whiteflies, spider mites, red spiders, aphids, and scale insects, appear when the room air is too dry. In this case, ventilate more frequently or spray the plant leaves with water as low in lime as possible to increase humidity. This method is very successful.

 

Spray the leaves and soil surface with a vegetable broth, for example. To do this, add 100 g of fresh herbs to 1 liter of water and let it steep for 24 hours.

Then boil for half an hour, let it cool, and pass it through a sieve. Dilute this broth with 2 liters of water and pour it into a spray bottle.

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A green thumb requires time and experience:

In nature, only a small fraction germinate successfully and/or subsequently become strong plants.

 

 

With an optimal growing environment and a few helpful tips, we try to significantly increase the success rate, but even then, 100 percent success is not guaranteed, and sometimes no seeds germinate at all.

 

 

We know firsthand that there are many failures on the road to becoming a green thumb, but we've never let this discourage us; on the contrary, every failure has always given us new energy to try again and again, even better.

Let's learn from the obstacles:

 

- If the growing medium is too moist, the seed can mold.

 

- If the growing medium is too dry, even briefly, the germination process can be interrupted, and many seeds will not resume the process later, even if there is sufficient moisture.

 

- The temperature ranges we specify during cultivation are based on experience, but seeds react individually and are sensitive to temperature changes.

 

- Germination time is also an empirical average and should not be interpreted too restrictively. Even in nature, there are sometimes significant delays, so much so that germination can occur very, very late.

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Sowing Instructions:

 

Indoor cultivation is possible year-round.

 

Soaking: Day 1

Soak the seed in room temperature water for 24 hours.

 

Sow about 1-2 centimeters deep in moist soil, using the container's glass.

 

Patience, perseverance, and waiting:

Cover the container with plastic wrap (which you will need to pierce) or with the container's lid, which you will also need to pierce. This will protect the soil from drying out.

Every two or three days, remove the plastic wrap for two hours. This prevents mold from forming on the soil.

 

 

Week 4: The first sprout

Place the container in a warm, humid place at 25°-30°C and keep the soil moist, but not wet. The seedling should appear after 40-60 days.

 

When the plant is about 10 cm tall, it's time to transfer it to a new pot:

Option 1: Use a cutter to make a vertical cut in the bamboo fiber cup that has been serving as a container, taking care not to cut or damage the camellia's roots.

Without disturbing the root ball, transfer the plant to the new pot and cover with soil.

Option 2: Transplant into a new pot, completely burying it together with the container that has been serving as a container (it is biodegradable, so the root system is not disturbed and can extend and propagate in the new soil at its own pace).

 

Position:

The preferred location is a bright, warm one.

Direct afternoon sun can burn its beautiful emerald green leaves, turning them yellow and sapping their vitality.

Coffea arabica 'Nana' is an ideal houseplant. From late May to September, the plant can also be kept outdoors in a warm, sheltered spot.

 

Soil:

Sandy, humus-rich, and slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.5) is best for the plant.

For lush growth in a pot, mix these ingredients:

40% High-quality universal potting soil: preferably peat-based, to ensure structure and basic acidity.

30% Coconut Fiber or White Peat: to maintain moisture without suffocating the roots (energy must flow, not stagnate).

20% Perlite or Pumice: essential for aeration.

10% Earthworm Humus: this is the "food of abundance," a concentrate of microbial life that nourishes the plant naturally and constantly.

 

Water:

Avoid limescale: the most common mistake is using the right substrate but watering with hard (calcareous) tap water. Limescale raises the pH and kills the plant. Use rainwater or settled water (or water supplemented with a few drops of vinegar or lemon juice).

 

 

Repotting:

The dwarf version grows moderately. Repot only when the roots begin to emerge from the drainage holes, preferably in spring, when they are most active.

 

Winter:

Being a tropical plant, it doesn't enter a true dormancy, but rather slows down.

It is extremely sensitive to frost. For it, winter must be a purely indoor experience.

Never let it drop below 12-15°C. If the temperature drops too low, the plant goes into shock.

Keep it away from cold windows at night, but keep it in the brightest spot in the house during the day.

The greatest danger is not the cold outside, but the dry heat of radiators.

Dry air makes the leaves brittle and prone to pests (such as red spider mites), robbing it of its aura of prosperity.

Mist the leaves every morning with non-calcareous water. This care mimics the morning dew in the Ethiopian mountains, reinvigorating the plant.

In winter, the plant drinks much less.

FAQ

Where should I place my coffee plant?

Ideal location: Near an east-facing window. It will receive morning light, which stimulates awakening and photosynthesis without heat stress.

If the window faces south or west, use a light curtain to filter the rays. The plant should "feel" the light, but not be attacked by it.

A tray of expanded clay and a trickle of water under the pot (without allowing the roots to touch the water) is the secret to keeping it thriving.

Can it live outdoors?

Yes, from late May to September, the plant can also be kept outdoors in a warm, sheltered place.

How can I water the coffee plant?

Water evenly with soft water, but avoid stagnant water.

Mixing the plant is also ideal.

If after a few months I don't see any sprouting, what can I do?

Check the seed by digging it up slightly to make sure it is still there, that it hasn't rotted, and above all, that the substrate is moist.

How can I keep the soil moist during germination?

Spray daily or every other day.

Remove the film for half an hour approximately every three days to prevent mold growth.

How to proceed after germination?

After successful germination, the seed coat will remain attached to the seedling for a few weeks; simply continue watering regularly until the seed coat splits and leaves emerge.

Can I fertilize the coffee plant?

Since it is a fruit-bearing plant (coffee berries), it requires complete but balanced nutrition.

Nutrition should flow only when the plant is ready to transform it into growth.

Spring and Summer (March - September): This is the time of expansion. Fertilize every 15-20 days. This supports the production of new, glossy leaves and the eventual production of white, jasmine-scented flowers.

Fall and Winter (October - February): Stop fertilizing completely.

The fertilizer must respect the soil pH:

Fertilizer for Acid-Loving Plants (Organic): Use a liquid fertilizer specifically for acid-loving plants, but dilute it a little more than recommended on the package. Look for products rich in potassium (K), which promote stem strength and berry ripening.

Iron: Coffea requires a lot of iron to maintain its dark green leaves. A chelated iron supplement once in spring ensures optimal color.

Be careful with coffee grounds: While it may seem poetic to add coffee grounds to coffee, don't overdo it. They can overacidify or create mold. Use them sparingly and only when thoroughly dried, mixing them lightly with the surface layer.

Does the coffee plant grow fast?

It grows at a steady pace.

The dwarf variety is genetically programmed to be compact. It grows on average 10-15 cm per year. Its speed is expressed not so much in height, but in the density of its foliage. It is a plant that "fills" the visual space with its glossy leaves, creating a sense of fullness and abundance.

When the plant is small (the first two years), it seems to accelerate to establish its presence. During this period, you will see new foliage sprouting every few months, especially in spring.

Towards the third or fourth year, vertical growth slows further as the plant begins to channel its energy towards flowering and producing berries (the "coffee cherry trees").

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