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Natural Vibes
Natural Vibes
GROW HARMONY
Nature is the teacher
Nature is the teacher
“Balance is your true nature”
Awaken your ancestral connection with nature
Awaken your ancestral connection with nature
flownaturalvibes@gmail.com
Tea plant
Outdoor shrub
Camelia Sinensis Sinensis
The tea plant is an ancient plant cultivated in Southeast Asia, where it thrives in splendid plantations.
All types of tea, including green, white, and black tea, come from the same plant.
In our climate, it can grow to a beautiful 1-meter tall plant, with pointed, glossy green oval leaves and yellowish-white flowers 4 centimeters across.
The message of Harmony
What is Harmony?
Harmony is not the absence of storms, but the ability to thrive despite adversity.
The Camellia teaches perseverance.
It remains green and vital for over a century. True evolution requires time and perseverance: we are like shrubs, rooted but capable of transforming difficulties into nourishment for our souls.
Balance
The union between the flower and the calyx is sacred.
Harmony lies in the balance between the delicacy of the spirit and the strength of protection.
The Camellia, whose flower falls to the ground as a single whole without separating, is an expression of total devotion: a union that transcends the end, where the masculine (the flower's calyx) and the feminine (the petals) dance in an eternal embrace of mutual support.
The Clarity of Presence
Tea is the first ally for meditation. It amplifies the pursuit of mental clarity and deep focus, helping us remain awake and present. Evolutionary growth flourishes in the silence of an attentive, pure, and focused mind, alert and undisturbed.
The Sacredness of Humility
We act with purity and profound respect toward every being. Harmony is nourished by humility. As in sacred ceremonies, our every gesture must be an offering of respect, stripping away the ego to reveal the crystalline essence of our inner center.
Local Nourishment
Connect with the frequency of your home.
Growing your own plant, harvesting its leaves, and brewing your own tea allows you to tune into the specific vibrations of the land that hosts us and nourish ourselves with the energy rooted in our garden.
It is a ritual of awareness that prepares us for our greatest spiritual expansion through a living connection with matter.
"Harmony is drinking the sky through a leaf grown in your own land, remaining alert in heart and steadfast in mind."
Instructions
Seed characteristics:
It contains a supply of nutrients that, after germination, ensures that the young plant can develop its basic organs—roots, stems, and leaves—before it is able to photosynthesize and grow with its nourished green leafy organs (autotrophy).
Nutrient reserves are usually created in the cotyledons (first embryonic leaves), and in some species also in a special nutrient-rich tissue (endosperm) found within the seed.
The seedling initially grows thanks to the nutrients stored in the seed, which are transported to the growing parts and used there as building materials. A large seed contains many nutrients. The seedling is correspondingly large from the start. When the cotyledons are open, light for photosynthesis, temperature, and water supply play an important role in growth.
Even if the seedling suddenly appears to stop growing, there will be increased root growth in the soil as a basis for optimal care, which your seedling needs for vigorous above-ground growth.
Growing medium:
Ordinary potting soil is not particularly suitable for sowing. It contains too many fertilizer salts. This means that the seeds can rot in it, or the germinated plants will die because the fertilizer salts damage their delicate roots. The provided substrate is low in nutrients, germ-free, and water-permeable. At the beginning of growth, the seedling substrate is used primarily to anchor the seedling and provide uniform moisture. Minerals (fertilizers) are not initially necessary, as the seeds "bring" them with them.
There is another advantage to a seedling substrate with only a low fertilizer content: the plant then forms more root mass (main and lateral roots, nourished by the seed's nutritive tissue) and thus, to put it anthropomorphically, increasingly "seeks" minerals, which allows for vigorous growth after the start of photosynthetic activity.
Plants grown in well-fertilized soil (e.g., potting soil from gardening stores) invest more in shoot and leaf growth and less in root growth, which often leads to less plant stability after planting.
Water and Proper Irrigation
Water should have as little limescale as possible. In most cities, water is unfortunately hard and calcareous.
Rainwater is ideal, or you can boil tap water and water your plants. It's best if the irrigation water is at room temperature.
After moistening the entire growing medium once at the beginning, it's best to prepare the water in a spray bottle and spray the growing medium daily. This way, the moisture is applied more evenly and prevents the seeds from washing away.
Air
Plants need water. However, the fact that plant roots also need air and breathe oxygen is often overlooked. Therefore, care must be taken to ensure that the soil is not compacted, that the pots are not directly in water, and that air can return to the roots after watering.
Protection:
Most pests, such as whiteflies, spider mites, red spiders, aphids, and scale insects, appear when the room air is too dry. In this case, ventilate more frequently or spray the plant leaves with water as low in lime as possible to increase humidity. This method is very successful.
Spray the leaves and soil surface with a vegetable broth, for example. To do this, add 100 g of fresh herbs to 1 liter of water and let it steep for 24 hours.
Then boil for half an hour, let it cool, and pass it through a sieve. Dilute this broth with 2 liters of water and pour it into a spray bottle.
A green thumb requires time and experience:
In nature, only a small fraction germinate successfully and/or subsequently become strong plants.
With an optimal growing environment and a few helpful tips, we try to significantly increase the success rate, but even then, 100 percent success is not guaranteed, and sometimes no seeds germinate at all.
We know firsthand that there are many failures on the road to becoming a green thumb, but we've never let this discourage us; on the contrary, every failure has always given us new energy to try again and again, even better.
Let's learn from the obstacles:
- If the growing medium is too moist, the seed can mold.
- If the growing medium is too dry, even briefly, the germination process can be interrupted, and many seeds will not resume the process later, even if there is sufficient moisture.
- The temperature ranges we specify during cultivation are based on experience, but seeds react individually and are sensitive to temperature changes.
- Germination time is also an empirical average and should not be interpreted too restrictively. Even in nature, there are sometimes significant delays, so much so that germination can occur very, very late.
Sowing Instructions:
Indoor cultivation is possible year-round.
Waking Up: Days 1 - 7
The seed must first be roughened: this means gently rubbing the entire surface of the seed with sandpaper, allowing it to better absorb the water during the pre-soaking process.
Then soak the seed in room-temperature water for about 12 hours or overnight.
Sow about a centimeter deep in moist soil, using the container's glass.
Patience, Perseverance, and Waiting:
Cover the container with plastic wrap (which you will need to pierce) or with the container's lid, which you will also need to pierce. This will protect the soil from drying out.
Every two or three days, remove the plastic wrap for two hours. This prevents mold from forming on the soil.
Week 3: The first sprout
Place the container in a bright, warm location between 22° and 25° C (72° and 77° F) and keep the soil moist, but not wet. The seedling should emerge after three to seven weeks.
When the plant is about 10 cm tall, it's time to transfer it to a new pot:
Option 1: Use a cutter to make a vertical cut in the bamboo fiber cup that has been serving as the container, taking care not to cut or damage the camellia's roots.
Without disturbing the root ball, transfer the plant to the new pot and cover with soil.
Option 2: Transplant into a new pot, completely burying it together with the container that has been serving as the container (it is biodegradable, so the root system is not disturbed and can extend and propagate in the new soil at its own pace).
Position:
The location can vary from partial shade to full sun.
From May to October, sheltered outdoor locations are also possible.
Care:
Sandy, humus-rich soil is best for the plant.
Alternatively, you can use ready-made rhododendron soil mixed with 10% sand.
To encourage a strong, bushy tea plant, remove the two top leaves and the shoot from each shoot that has developed five new leaves. This will stimulate the plant to flower after 2-3 years.
Water:
Avoid limescale: The most common mistake is using the right substrate but watering with hard (calcareous) tap water. Limescale raises the pH and kills the plant. Use rainwater or water left to settle (or adjusted with a few drops of vinegar or lemon).
Soil:
Camellias cannot absorb nutrients if the soil is not acidic (pH between 4.5 and 5.5).
Acid blond peat: This is the classic base. It retains moisture and maintains a low pH.
Soil for acid-loving plants: If you purchase a ready-made mix, make sure it is high-quality and specifically designed for azaleas, camellias, and hydrangeas.
Drainage: Volcanic Structure
Although it loves humidity, camellias hate stagnant water, which causes their fine roots to rot.
Pumice or volcanic lapilli (30%): Add volcanic aggregate to aerate the soil.
Lapilli is excellent because it releases minerals and helps maintain acidity.
If you want to prepare a perfect mix for a pot on the balcony or in the garden:
50% Specific soil for acid-loving plants (or blond peat).
20% Akadama (which, despite being neutral, has a perfect structure for the roots).
20% Pumice (for drainage).
10% Pine bark (small pieces).
Mulch:
Cover the soil surface with pine needles or bark. This simulates the camellia's natural undergrowth, maintains constant moisture, and acidifies the soil every time you water.
Pot:
If you grow it as a bonsai or in a pot, choose stoneware or earthenware. Avoid plastic, which overheats the roots in summer, altering the plant's frequencies.
Winter:
This is a sacred time for Camellia sinensis. It's the period when the plant stops producing leaves to concentrate all its vital energy internally, preparing for the "first harvest" in spring (the most valuable).
Camellia sinensis sinensis is the hardiest variety, but being an evergreen, its leaves continue to transpire even in winter.
Hardiness: It tolerates temperatures down to -5°C/-7°C.
In case of severe frost: If temperatures drop below -10°C for several days, protect the foliage with a non-woven fabric (TNT). This allows the plant to breathe but protects it from the icy wind that "cooks" the leaves.
Winter watering: Check the substrate. If it hasn't rained and the soil is dry to the touch, water during the warmest hours of the day (late morning), but don't water if the soil is frozen or if an imminent night frost is forecast.
To protect the root system, spread a generous layer (5-10 cm) of pine needles, bark, or dry leaves on the surface of the pot. This insulates the roots from surface frost and maintains an acidic pH.
Winter flowering: Unlike many plants, Camellia sinensis often flowers between autumn and early winter.
FAQ
Where should I place my Camellia plant?
Camellia is a mountain understory plant: it loves light but fears excessive direct heat.
Eastern exposure is the absolute best. The plant receives the morning sun, which is gentle and invigorating (ideal for photosynthesis of tea leaves), but remains protected from the scorching afternoon sun.
Northeast or northwest exposure is an excellent alternative, especially here in Italy where summers are very hot. This exposure guarantees constant but never aggressive light. The plant will grow a little slower, but the leaves will be more tender, less bitter, and richer in chlorophyll and theanine.
In the garden, place it under the canopy of larger trees, under deciduous trees or pines (which acidify the soil with their needles) that filter the light, creating that "dotted light" effect that is the camellia's native habitat.
Avoid full south exposure, dark or sunken corners, and wind corridors.
Can Camellias stay indoors?
No, it lives outdoors year-round. Modern homes are too dry for Camellia sinensis. Outdoors, the plant benefits from morning dew and rain, which are essential for the health of its waxy leaves. Indoors, the leaves would tend to dry out at the edges and fall off.
Winter frost protection?
Only in case of frost, protect it with the anti-freeze cover.
How can I water the Camellia?
Water evenly with soft water, but avoid stagnant water.
Mixing the plant is also ideal.
If after a few months I don't see any sprouting, what can I do?
Check the seed by digging it up slightly to make sure it is still there, that it hasn't rotted, and above all, that the substrate is moist.
How can I keep the soil moist during germination?
Spray daily or every other day.
Remove the film for half an hour approximately every three days to prevent mold growth.
Better in a pot or directly in the ground?
Potted cultivation is the ideal choice if you want complete control over your plant's health.
Pros:
Controlling pH is much easier to maintain acidic soil in a pot than correcting the acidity of garden soil.
You can move the plant to protect it from icy winter winds or scorching summer sun, ensuring it always maintains the optimal balance.
Cons: The roots are more exposed to temperature changes (frost or excessive heat), and the plant requires more frequent watering.
Soil cultivation is the best choice if you want your plant to become a majestic, century-old shrub.
Pros:
Maximum vigor: In soil, the roots can expand freely. The plant will grow faster and become much more resistant to disease and drought.
Deep connection: The plant feeds directly on the energy of your soil.
Cons: You must ensure your soil is naturally acidic. If the soil is clayey or calcareous (as in many areas of the Po Valley), the Camellia will suffer from iron chlorosis (yellow leaves) and will slowly die despite care.
Can I fertilize Camellia?
Yes, from April to September, fertilize every 2-3 weeks with a fertilizer for potted plants.
Be aware that what you feed your plant will directly affect the flavor of your tea: too much chemical fertilizer could make the infusion metallic or unpleasant, disrupting the harmony you seek.
Avoid blue or pink chemical granular fertilizers. Choose organic options that respect an acidic pH.
In spring, organic nitrogen is needed to encourage the production of new leaves (your harvest).
The traditional fertilizer par excellence for acid-loving plants is ground lupin. It releases nitrogen slowly and helps maintain acidic soil. Simply sprinkle a handful on the surface every 2 months in spring.
Pelleted manure (in small doses): excellent for soil structure, but make sure it is well-rotted.
Iron supplementation: Camellias often suffer from iron deficiency if the pH rises too high. If you see yellowing leaves but the veins remain green (chlorosis), the plant is losing its ability to photosynthesise.
Use chelated iron (preferably in powder form dissolved in water) once or twice a year to restore that deep, glossy green.
If you've just repotted the plant with new soil, don't fertilize for at least 3-4 months: the fresh soil already has everything it needs.
Does Camellia grow fast?
In the first 2 or 3 years of its life, the camellia seems almost immobile. It's dedicating all its energy to building a strong root system. At this stage, you may only see a few centimeters of growth per year. This is the time when the plant tests your perseverance.
Once established, and if it likes the acidic substrate, the camellia grows at a moderate rate.
It can stretch about 10-20 cm in a year. It will never quickly become a giant tree: it's a shrub that prefers to thicken rather than tower. This is a good thing, because it allows you to have many shoots (your future cups of tea) in a small space.
In spring, when it wakes from the frost, the production of new buds is a small miracle of speed. Between April and May, you'll see the new light green shoots appearing almost visibly.
Removing the leaves (production pruning) stimulates the plant to produce new shoots. The more you harvest (wisely), the more the plant will strive to regrow, becoming thicker and more compact.
Camellia sinensis is at its best after 5-7 years. It's at this point that it becomes a generous "tea factory," while maintaining the manageable size that makes it perfect for a meditative garden.